Saturday, January 26, 2019

人之島 ・ Ponso no Tao

計畫已久的蘭嶼之旅... 嗯,果然很夢幻。


騎著機車、吹著涼風、享受著無止境的美景,我們的四天三夜大概就是這麼過的。對於現在正被困住在書桌或辦公桌上的你我來說,這些印象或許都太抽象了。更不可思議的是,這個神秘的地方居然在臺灣境內。距離本島大約不到一百海里,語言、食物及文化截然大不同。唯一破壞南島風情的象徵大概也就莫過於國旗吧... 

島上的日子好悠閒,跟都市來比,簡直就是把數度放緩了大概九成。身為青年遊客的我們,在這裡真的度過了輕鬆、悠哉的時光。地方小,去哪裡都方便。當地達悟族文化濃厚又獨特。而四圍的海洋似乎痊療了我們心內的所有傷痕及疲憊。

不過我相信對於島民,島上的生活並沒有像我們這些遊客所感受到的這麼美好。畢竟我們只是來玩,小島上的生活,我們可以選擇性地享受。而島民們的主要生計則取決於觀光以及離鄉背井的打拼。

Last August, my friends Yu-LingChun-Jung and I -- after a period of planning and dozens of terrified "there is no seat available" moments -- finally commenced our trip to Lanyu, an offshore island of Taiwan in the Pacific Ocean. As fate would have it, the weather turned out to be very cloudy (and showery at times) which somehow was against our primary expectations, but turned out to be just the right weather as bright days would probably have led to us cannonballing down the Lanyu jetty. 

Ready, set, go!
夢幻的小蘭嶼/無人島
舌上有飯珠
Traditional Tao patterns in our room.
美眉們
Sweating under the rain coats. 
白鶴亮翅的新解釋

至於島上的天氣,原本心裡已準備好即將被曬死的我們,居然被舒適的陰天和清風迎接!而更令我們驚訝的是,民宿的老闆娘還跟我們說,這其實算好天氣,因為烈日當空的蘭嶼真的不是在跟你開玩笑的... 好吧,既然如此,那我們也就只好接受了吧!

我永遠不會忘記我們第二晚回家之路。當我們剛好騎過島嶼的最南端,路燈一瞬間就突然間熄了(真的是辛苦駕駛們了)。尋找著回野銀部落之路的我們,一邊覺得很驚悚,一邊因看著被車燈些微照亮的海洋似乎感嘆不已。雖然我們在漆黑中只看見了海洋,岩石以及位於遠方之小蘭嶼的輪廓,不過就是因為這樣子的漆黑,夢幻的感覺更為提升。

The pace of Lanyu -- probably quite abstract for people living in metropolitan areas -- was even more  pleasing and relaxing. I remember that one day we sat in the traditional pavillions, gazing into the waves of the Pacific Ocean, whist listening to Sleep Sound and enjoying the refreshing sea breeze. 
Lanyu for sure is a place that touches your heart. Its raw and primitive landscape combined with its unique Tao culture made us seeing another side of Taiwan.

Despite being quite small and not too easy to access, the island offers a wide range of scenery, traditional foods and activities, like hiking, diving and canoeing. But as wonderful and dreamy our trip to Lanyu was, we also realized how privileged we as tourists were to being able to experience the perks of the island life, while knowing that for many natives, seeking a living is mostly determined by tourism or moving to the mainland of Taiwan for work.

Number 1 Hot Spot: Lanyu weather station!! Lol
Nest of the snakes. 
中華民國一〇七年八月二十日上午五時廿五分,蘭嶼野銀部落
飛國內線要帶護照嗎?
芋頭冰紅茶
下秘境中
View from our pavilion with traditional Tao architecture.
飛魚炒飯加紅茶
Wannabe Tai Chi.
I think its this way!

「人之島」(ponso no tao), 這座美妙島嶼的原名其實意味著達悟族人與他們家鄉之間的深厚感情。對於他們來說,蘭嶼就是他們的小世界,而他們就是這小世界的人民,也就是一種微觀世界、民以島為中心的概念。

這座島在短短四天之內讓我們愛上了它,這座島在各種層面上也讓我看見了不一樣的臺灣。

Ponso no Tao, "the island of the people" is the original name of Lanyu.
It somehow resembles the little, illusionary microcosm that you enter when visiting the island; for the natives the island is the center of their world, and the world is the island itself. 


To Stay 住宿

蘭嶼262民宿 (野銀部落)

老闆娘與老闆很親切,而且262有提供傳統屋客房,很值得一住!

Transport 交通

德安航空一天有好幾班,而且一下下就到了。船的話也有,票也相對也比腳好搶,但太平洋的浪真的很可怕 (嗚 。
至於島內交通建議還是以機車為主,但騎車時務必要小心,地面有時很濕滑。

Daily Air offers daily flights to Lanyu from Taitung, which is more quick and bears no risk of seasickness... 
While on Lanyu, I recommend renting a scooter. But beware of slippery roads!

Food 飲食

芋頭+飛魚 = 天堂

Make sure to get your hands on "Flying Fish" and Taro Ice Cream. Omg.

 Advises 小叮嚀

蘭嶼的垃圾場非常有限,所以提醒大家把自己的垃圾帶回本島。不妨也可以順便從事淨灘!
When in Lanyu remember to bring your own garbage back to Taiwan, as Lanyu's waste facilities  run short in capacity.
戲水時,最好使用環保防曬乳,以免造成海洋污染。
Sunscreen may cause ocean pollution, therefore make sure to watch check the ingredients before applying.

蘭嶼 ・Orchid Island
107.08.17 - 107.08.20
Photos taken with Gudak Cam on iPhone SE

Saturday, February 10, 2018

Sunday, December 31, 2017

雨都

雖然它灰暗及潮濕,但它總是充滿著一種很愜意的氛圍,而這種氛圍可是令人著迷的。
我相信,不管是侯孝賢,或者是十七世紀的荷蘭人都應該有體會到吧。

我還記得我從小就很喜歡逛基隆廟口即便大雨嘩啦嘩啦地下或街頭人滿為患,
沒吃到「鼎邊趖」就宛如白去一趟。
如今,基隆已經歷了很多的改造,但在他的同時,很多貌似腐朽卻具有獨特美感的建築物也跟著被拆撤了。從早年的眷村到即將被拆除的中山陸橋,很多地方已經不如過往了。
多半的人對於這一座老舊的陸橋或許嗤之以鼻,但身為一位懷舊的部落客,這些充滿著迷幻氛圍的地方未來也只能保存在相片以和自己的回憶裡。

幸好,基隆有一件事情是不會改變的,它只會隨著季節的變動週而復始,而這件事也就莫過於它下不停的霖雨。

Keelung, the rainy metropolis.
It is gloomy, it is rainy and it is dark;
but somehow, this particular port on Taiwan's north eastern shore radiates a peaceful serenity. 

There is a clear trend in Keelung lately: old things change into new, and rotten ones become shiny again. I guess that this is a positive development after all. Though, it does make me sad to not being able to go back to the places I used to go so often as a child. 
But then I have to remember:
 It is memory that these old places transmit, and memory again that transmits these places, after they are gone. 

預祝大家一個美好的2018。
Wishing all of you a good start into 2018.



All photos taken with a Canon A-1 and an iPhone SE.



106.10.8
雨港,雨都,臺灣北玄門,基隆